This is how the back starts out. Plank of Myrtle.
The Myrtle plank is the front piece of pink coloured timber
on the left. Behind it is a nice figured piece
of Rock Maple, but this mandolin is to have a Myrtle back.
|
So I take the plank down and measure it for fit against the
A type mandolin template. It fits, so will do nicely.
|
Check the end grain. Quarter sawn. Not exactly
on the quarter, but certainly good enough.
|
Mark the length.
. |
And cut to length. The rest of the plank is put aside
for the next mandolin.
|
Make sure that one edge is square. The best edge to be
square is the one that is going to be on the outside.
The square face is put on the bandsaw table when slicing it
in half (next).
|
|
The other edge is than marked down the
centre and the plank sliced down the centre with the
bandsaw.
|
Here is the plank after slicing on the bandsaw showing the
bookmatch. This is how it will be glued.
|
The centre join is prepared with my favorite plane with the
blade very sharp and set to cut very thin shavings so the
surfaces are perfectly flat and fit tight.
|
Ok, so the join is ready to glue. Apply glue to one
surface. This time I am using LMI Luthiers glue.
|
Glue and clamp
|
After the glue has dried (at least 24hrs) the 2 pieces are
flattened in the drum sander so one side is perfectly flat.
I used to do this with a hand plane, but the drum sander is
so much easier.
. |
The back of the mandolin is marked out using the A type
mandolin template and cut out with the bandsaw. The
depth of the edge is marked with a marking gauge (see
carving the top). Sorry, I forgot to photograph this
for the back.
|
Rough carving the outside with my trusty rotary chisel.
It takes off wood quickly, but needs a bit of practice
because one slip can easily turn it all into firewood.
|
Here the rough carving has been finished. With the
rotary chisel it usually takes no more than about 15
minutes.
|
The shape of the back is then formed by hand with finger
planes.
|
|
Here I am sanding the back to smooth out the marks left by
the fingerplanes.
|
Feel for bumps and any uneven curves and correct.
|
Check that the arch is nice and smooth with no bumps.
|
Check that the arch follows the template.
|
|
Everything now checks out ok so hand sand with medium and
then fine sandpaper.
|
Finished the outside of the back. Here I usually give
it one coat of blonde shellac. It is now ready for
carving the inside.
|
Set up the drillpress before drilling depth holes into the
underside of the back.
|
Holes are drilled to preset depths to guide the carving.
|
The perimeter is marked. This is an area I need to
avoid carving because this is where the sides will be glued.
|
Rough carving the inside.
|
Finished rough carving.
|
The inner side of the back is now smoothed with finger
planes so most of the marks from the rotary chisel are
removed. The back is now put aside while I work on
finishing the top. I will get back to the back once
the top has been braced and tuned (see tuning).
|
