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Mandolin Comparisons
P. E Coombe
Introduction
In a previous paper published in this journal (Coombe 2005), I
outlined a method of using Chladni patterns to tune mandolin free plates. In
that paper I indicated that the method was most useful for maintaining
consistency from instrument to instrument. However, there is very little hard
evidence to indicate that the method is actually useful in violins, let alone
mandolins where much less research has been done. For example, Atwood (1996) and
Wilkins (2001) both failed to demonstrate any strong correlation between modes
of vibration of free plates in violins, and the modes in a completed instrument.
There is a big gap between measuring free plate modes and the tone of the
completed instrument. Once the instrument is assembled, everything changes. The
topic of plate tuning is very controversial among violin makers, and often
discussions on Internet forums between the two protagonists end up in a slanging
match. Fortunately that is not usually the case amongst mandolin makers, and the
topic often comes up on Internet discussion forums. In this paper I have tried
to examine this question and to test the hypotheses that Chladni plate tuning
(or tap tuning) is somehow correlated to the tone of the completed instrument,
and is therefore of some use to Luthiers. It does not matter if the modes
change, and it is not necessary to understand what happens as an instrument is
assembled, if there is a significant correlation.
Testing this hypothesis is very difficult because of the
difficulty of getting a large enough statistical sample of instruments together
at the same time. Ideally the instruments would need to be identical except for
the plate tuning so they would need to be made from the same species of wood, be
made by the same maker, and also would need to be made at about the same time,
since it is well known that the sound of a mandolin will change with age.
Impossible to do unless one has access to a music instrument factory or a
sizeable research grant! However, it is a much easier to disprove the
hypothesis. If it is possible to make two identical mandolins that have the free
plates tuned identical, and the resulting sound of the completed instruments are
completely different, then the hypothesis is likely to be false. Conversely, if
identical mandolins made with very different free plate tuning end up sounding
identical or very similar, the hypothesis is once again likely to be false,
although this is not as convincing. This type of experiment is fine in
principle, but very difficult to do in practice. Wood is so highly variable in
its physical properties, that rarely is it possible to tune free plates exactly
the same. Even if the wood comes from identical trees, it is possible that the
resulting free plates will tune differently, but at least if the wood does come
from the same tree you are in with a chance. Unfortunately it is not always
possible to get wood from the same tree. Other factors that are difficult to
ensure are exactly the same (e.g. arching, neck stiffness) can also influence
the result. Thus probably the best we can do are instruments that are close to
identical, but not quite identical. In addition to this, is the very real
practical problem of customers wanting their instruments delivered on time, and
made according to their individual preferences. The end result is mostly a
matter of pot luck (to have two instruments with similar free plate tuning at
the same time) so direct comparisons can be made. One method of getting around
the timing problem is to have a reference instrument against which the
instruments in question are evaluated. My experience has been that mandolins
with the free plates tuned similarly do in fact sound similar, but this has only
been an empirical observation which required a more rigorous test, hence this
paper.
Method
3 pairs of mandolins were made over a period of about 18 months
(amongst others ordered by customers). Pair (1) were European Spruce/Myrtle (#95
and #97) oval hole mandolins with the top and back made from wood from the same
trees. Pair (2) were F soundhole mandolins with the top made from Red Spruce
(#101 and #102) from the same tree, but the back was Tasmanian Myrtle from a
different tree. Pair (3) were oval hole mandolins made from King Billy Pine and
Blackwood (Acacia melanoxylon) from different trees (#103 and
#105). Pairs (1) and (2) were tuned as close as I could practically manage, but
pair (3) were tuned completely differently. I was able to keep pairs (2) and (3)
together for some time, so I could compare the tonal qualities in some detail,
but pair (1) were subject to customer delivery demands so I was not able to make
direct comparisons. However, I was able to compare both of the mandolins from
pair (1) to my reference oval hole mandolin (#87) for some days so had a good
impression of the characteristics of both instruments as compared to the
reference. The reference mandolin was similar (but slightly different) sounding
and was made from the same woods. There was only a short time lag of a few days
from when one mandolin was sent to the customer, and the other mandolin was
strung up, so I am reasonably confident of the appraisal. My appraisals were
checked by my partner, and where possible by another instrument maker. In every
case they agreed with my appraisal.
Chladni plate tuning frequencies of modes 1, 3 and 4 were
recorded over a period of about 7 years for all the mandolins I have made.
Comments on the tone of each mandolin were also recorded. In order to maintain
consistency as much as possible over a period of time, each new mandolin was
compared to a reference instrument.
Results
The free plate modes of a mandolin are shown in Figure 1 (from
Coombe 2005). I normally do not
try to measure mode 2, so that is missing. Mode 2 is usually fairly close to
mode 1 and although mode 1 and mode 2 can be clearly heard as two distinctive
tap tones, mode 1 dominates and for mode 2 it is usually difficult or impossible
to get a Chadni pattern to form (see also Coombe 2005)..

The frequencies of the free plate modes of the pairs of
mandolins (top modes are after the braces had been glued) are shown in table 1.
The percentages are the differences expressed as a percentage of the lower
value. Tuning of pair (1) is very close and the sound of pair (1) were as far as
I could determine identical. Both had exactly the same tonal characteristics
when compared to the reference instrument. Pair (2) are F hole mandolins, unlike
all the other mandolins in this paper which have an oval sound hole. I was able
to play this pair for extended periods of time and my partner was also able to
listen to the two mandolins one after the other. My impression as a player was
that they sounded very similar, but not quite identical, with #102 having a
slightly better sounding E string and being a bit more responsive. However, this
difference was so small that I was able to repeatedly fool my partner which
instrument I was playing when she was not able to see the instruments. I also
managed to fool myself during one session in a darkened room. After swapping
from instrument to instrument for a while I needed to turn the light on to work
out which mandolin I was actually playing. Conclusion was that this pair of
mandolins had tonal characteristics that were very close indeed, close enough to
fool most people. Note that this pair were not as closely matched as pair (1).
The tops were closely matched, but mode 4 of the back of #102 was 28Hz higher
than #101 (6.7% difference).
Table1
Top
| |
Mandolin # |
Mode 1 |
Mode 3 |
Mode 4 |
|
Pair 1 |
95 |
163 0% |
321 1.9% |
419 0.2% |
| |
97 |
163 |
315 |
420 |
|
Pair 2 |
101 |
175 0.6% |
|
367 1.09% |
| |
102 |
176 |
|
360 |
|
Pair 3 |
103 |
148 11.4% |
304 0.7% |
400 22.5% |
| |
105 |
165 |
308 |
490 |
Back
| |
Mandolin # |
Mode 1 |
Mode 3 |
Mode 4 |
|
Pair 1 |
95 |
164 0% |
332 2.1% |
420 0% |
| |
97 |
164 |
339 |
420 |
|
Pair 2 |
101 |
174 1.7% |
362 1.9% |
445 6.7% |
| |
102 |
177 |
369 |
417 |
|
Pair 3 |
103 |
145 11.4% |
306 17.6% |
401 11% |
| |
105 |
161 |
360 |
445 |
I was able to keep pair (3) long enough for extended playing
sessions. This was not really necessary since the sound of these two mandolins
was so completely different it was obvious to everyone which one was being
played. I was not able to fool my partner when she could not see which mandolin
I was playing, nor was I able to fool myself, nor the other instrument maker.
#103 sounded to me to be by far the better sounding instrument, and everyone who
heard the two mandolins agreed with me. #103 had a much cleaner tone and was
more evenly balanced across the strings whereas #105 was louder and had a strong
booming G string.
Having evaluated these pairs of mandolins, it was thought that
maybe my order book should be examined for more evidence. The examination was
confined to mandolins with oval sound hole, top European Spruce, back Tasmanian
Myrtle and my so called Goldfinch model (oval sound hole King Billy Pine top,
Blackwood back) since these are in the greatest numbers. There are a few other
oval hole mandolins made from different timbers, but the numbers are too small
(1 or 2) to make any meaningful conclusions. The timbers do have a significant
effect of the sound of the instruments (Coombe 1996 and 1999), maybe a bigger
effect than tuning the free plates. F soundhole mandolins were not examined
because of small numbers made from the same timbers, and also because the
situation appears to be more complicated because it is seldom possible to match
the top and back tunings. Mandolins made earlier than #75 were not examined
because this was the first mandolin made from European Spruce sourced from
Switzerland. All the Spruce topped mandolins have been made with this Spruce.
A table of the free plate modes and the comments about the tone
of the resulting mandolins is shown in Table 2. The comments have been taken
direct from my order book with just a few minor re-wordings. Note that #75 was
used as a reference for mandolins from #75-#86, and #87 was used as the
reference after that. There was a change in the bridge configuration (see Coombe
2003), and the neck wood was changed to Queensland Maple on and after #87 (not
on the Goldfinch mandolins which all have Blackwood necks). #80 and #89 have
been excluded because of differing bridge configurations, and the bridge does
affect the sound significantly. The percentage values are the difference between
the top and back modes expressed as a percentage of the lower value.
Most of the mandolins were excellent instruments, but one of
each wood combination were somewhat disappointing (#104 and #105, highlighted in
bold in table 2). Note that the tunings are not random. Each instrument was
deliberately tuned so the top and back mode 4 was as close as physically
possible because experience told me that this produced the best sounding
instruments.
What is consistently different about #104 and #105? Both do not
have mode 4 matched between the top and the back. The difference between the top
and back modes are 12% and 14.1% which is much higher than any of the other
mandolins. The next closest is 4.7% in mandolin #78 which was a very successful
instrument. #104 and #105 were different because of the physical properties of
the wood did not enable me to tune the top and back mode 4 as close as I would
have liked. This is something I am not likely to repeat because I would like my
instruments to sound consistently excellent. Both mandolins also do not have
mode 3 matched either, although the difference for mode 3 for #104 is not
unusual so it is probably not significant. Other tests have shown that mode 3
becomes smaller or disappears, and mode 4 becomes by far the strongest mode
after the ribs are glued (Coombe, in preparation) so mode 3 is most likely not
as significant as mode 4. From this data, the probability of the two poorer
sounding mandolins matching up with the larger differences in mode 4 purely by
chance is less than 1% so is statistically significant.
Table 2
European Spruce/Myrtle
|
Mandolin # |
Mode 1 |
Mode 3 |
Mode 4 |
Comments |
|
#75 Top
Back
Difference |
162
155
4.5% |
300
279
7.5% |
381
381
0% |
Beautiful, even, sweet and clear sounding instrument.
More lively and a bit brighter and louder than #74. Love it and will
keep as a reference. REFERENCE |
|
#74 Top
Back
Difference |
?
144
|
276
289
4.7% |
362
365
0.8% |
Beautiful warm sounding instrument. Rich sweet tone.
Very nice indeed. |
|
#78 Top
Back
Difference |
173
164
5.5% |
309
309
0% |
401
383
4.7% |
Beautiful rich, smooth tone. Probably best so far.
Treble has great clarity, sweetness and smoothness. |
|
#81 Top
Back
Difference |
172
167
3% |
296
320
8.1% |
392
392
0% |
Beautiful sweet sounding mandolin. Very responsive. Very
nice sounding E string. Mary Shannon’s mandolin, it suits her well. |
|
#82 Top
Back
Difference |
159
137
16% |
299
293
2% |
377
385
2.1% |
Similar to #81, but not quite as sweet sounding. Has
been mistaken for a Loar in a blind listening test recording (Ha!). |
|
#86 Top
Back
Difference |
167
153
9.2% |
298
310
4% |
390
390
0% |
Very sweet. Very good treble,. Similar to #75 but with a
bit of boom on the G string. Nice. |
|
#87 Top
Back
Difference |
173
170
1.8% |
320
315
1.6% |
410
411
0.2% |
Very nice, probably best Spruce top so far. Unusually
even sound across strings and up neck. Very good clarity. REFERENCE |
|
#95 Top
Back
Difference |
163
164
0.6% |
321
332
3.4% |
419
420
0.2% |
Superb mandolin. Best oval hole to date. Even balance,
very sweet and clear treble. Unusually rich tone, very loud. |
|
#97 Top
Back
Difference |
163
164
0.6 |
315
339
7.6% |
420
420
0% |
Loud, responsive, evenly balanced, smooth. Very similar
or identical to #95 |
|
#108 Top
Back
Difference |
169
160
5.6% |
301
318
5.7% |
400
402
0.5% |
Very nice, one of the best. Nice well balanced tone. |
|
#111 Top
Back
Difference |
?
167 |
320
340
6.3% |
420
422
0.5% |
Nice mandolin, I like it. Not the loudest, but very even
tone, very well balanced. In comparison to #87 is similar but marginally
a better instrument. Better balance, slightly finer tone. Much better
than #104 |
|
#104 Top
Back
Difference |
192
167
15% |
308
333
8.1% |
393
440
12% |
Very clear treble, sweet and excellent clarity. Bass a
bit thin. Lacking character. Big sustain. Somewhat disappointing. |
|
#117 Top
Back
Difference |
161
149
8.1% |
276
303
9.8% |
391
391
0% |
Remarkably similar to #87, just a bit more responsive
and louder. Nicely evenly balanced, almost identical to #87. A bit more
ring and sustain compared to #87. One of my favourites, I like it a lot. |
King Billy Pine/Blackwood (Goldfinch model)
|
Mandolin # |
Mode 1 |
Mode 3 |
Mode 4 |
Comments |
|
#88 Top
Back
Difference |
155
149
4% |
339
325
4.3% |
419
426
1.7% |
Very lively, clear and sweet. Loud and sharp. Good
projection. |
|
#96 Top
Back
Difference |
170
149
14.1%
|
318
307
3.6% |
401
406
1.2% |
Outstanding. Unusually rich, clear tone with plenty of
volume. G string with a slight boom, D,A,E strings superb. |
|
#103 Top
Back
Difference |
148
145
2.1% |
304
306
0.7% |
400
401
0.3% |
Very nice sounding mandolin. Good even rich tone.
Excellent clarity and clean sound. Not one of the loudest Goldfinch
models. |
|
#105 Top
Back
Difference |
165
161
2.5% |
308
360
16.9% |
390
445
14.1% |
A bit disappointing. A bit too much metallic ring, G
string quite boomy. Not as nice sounding as #103. Not as clean sounding
as most of the Goldfinch models. |
|
#107 Top
Back
Difference |
166
150
10.7% |
297
321
8.1% |
417
419
0.5% |
One of the better Goldfinch models. Very even rich tone,
also with good volume, but not the loudest Goldfinch. |
|
#110 Top
Back
Difference |
169
182
7.7% |
349
350
0.3% |
445
431
3.2% |
Very nice mandolin. Sweet, well balanced, loud. One of
the best Goldfinch models. |
|
#112 Top
Back
Difference |
175
142
23.2% |
340
326
4.3% |
430
437
1.6% |
Loud, probably the loudest Goldfinch so far. Nice clear
tone , evenly balanced. Exceptionally nice sounding D.A and E strings.
Slight boom on G string. Very strong, powerful sounding mandolin. Big
sustain and ring. Will be an amazing sounding mandolin in a few years
time. |
|
#116 Top
Back
Difference |
166
161
3.1% |
350
347
0.8% |
463
465
0.4% |
Very evenly balanced, clean and sweet sound. Nicely
responsive with good ring and sustain. Good volume. Nice one, I like it. |
|
#121 Top
Back
Difference |
176
148
18.9% |
354
321
10.3% |
432
450
4.2% |
Very nice, one of the better Goldfinch models. Very
sweet and clear with good volume. Well balanced. Similar to #116 |
Most of the mandolins I make are made from Australian native
timbers, not the traditional timbers of Spruce and Myrtle. The question now
arises as to whether this method of tuning is useful for traditional timbers.
Table 3 shows the results from three Maple backed mandolins, two of which were
tuned to match Mode 4 in the top and back. These two instruments I regard as
some of the best sounding Spruce topped mandolins I have made, particularly
#106. #106 was made from European Spruce and European Maple, and #115 was made
from Engelmann Spruce and Birdseye Maple (i.e. Rock Maple). Also included is #92
which is made from Engelmann Spruce and quilted Big Leaf Maple. I was so
disappointed in the sound of this mandolin that I have not used Big Leaf Maple
again, although now I suspect the problem was the low tuning of the back
relative to the top.
Table 3
|
Mandolin # |
Mode 1 |
Mode 3 |
Mode 4 |
Comments |
|
#106 Top
Back
Difference |
190
159
19.5% |
320
343
7.2% |
426
427
0.2% |
Bright, very responsive and resonant. Excellent clarity
and clean sound. Different from Myrtle. I think it will be a superb
instrument once broken in. |
|
#115 Top
Back
Difference |
176
160
10% |
295
289
2.1% |
383
385
0.5% |
Sounded roughly equivalent to #87 at first, but after a
month or so sounded much better. Really nice mandolin, good volume,
excellent clarity, well balanced, lovely sweet and clear treble, warm
sounding bass. Excellent instrument. I did not like it quite as much as
#112 Goldfinch. |
|
#92 Top
Back
Difference |
170
156 |
301
303 |
416
339 |
Sweet and delicate sounding. Not as much bite as #87.
Light and responsive. Relatively quiet. Not up to my usual standard
and definitely not as nice as #87. |
One particular mandolin that was excluded from the above tables
because of a non standard bridge configuration is particularly interesting. This
mandolin was disappointing at first, with an overly mellow weak sound and with a
bass that was overpowering. However, the problem was solved by replacing the
ebony bridge saddle with a Blackwood saddle. Blackwood saddles give a much
brighter and sweet sound (Coombe 2003). Examining the plate tunings, one notes
that this mandolin did not have mode 4 in the top and back closely matching.
Table 4
|
Mandolin # |
Mode 1 |
Mode 3 |
Mode 4 |
Comments |
|
#89 Top
Back
Difference |
165
171
3.6% |
308
370
20.1% |
439
339
29.5% |
Overly strong bass with Ebony saddle. With Blackwood
saddle well balanced, sweet and clear. |
Figure 2 shows the data presented in tables 2 – 4 pooled into
graphical form. Note that on the X axis R indicates the reference mandolins, and
* indicates the relative poorer sounding mandolins. It is clear from these
graphs that there is no correlation with mode 1 or mode 3 and sound, but the
correlation between the differences with Mode 4 and sound is clear. It does not
matter if mode 4 of the top is tuned higher or lower than the back, what matters
is the difference . This supports the contention of many mandolin makers that it
does not matter what absolute frequency the plates are tuned to. What does
matter is the relative relationship of mode 4 between the top and the back. This
is a little different from violins where the recommendation is to match mode 2
(equivalent to mandolin mode 1) in the top and back, and to keep mode 5
(equivalent to mandolin mode 4) within a tone (Hutchins 1983). In mandolins, it
does not appear to matter how mode 1 is tuned.
Figure 2



Discussion and conclusion
Examining table 1, it can be seen that the free plate tuning of
pair (1) is near identical. Tuning of pair (2) were identical for the Red Spruce
tops, but slightly different for the backs. Free plate tuning of pair (3) was
completely different. This is in close agreement with the tonal qualities of the
mandolins, with pair (1) sounding identical, pair (2) sounding very close to
identical, and pair (3) sounding completely different.
The results presented in Table 2, and also the evidence from the
mandolin pairs does support the hypothesis that the relative tuning of the top
and back free plates, particularly that of mode 4, does influence the tone of
the completed instrument. Overall, taking into account table 4 and the 3 Maple
mandolins, the evidence is convincing. Note that these are all oval soundhole
mandolins, so this conclusion does not necessarily apply to F soundhole
mandolins, but it does appear to be relevant for mandolins made from the
traditional Spruce and Maple combination, although due to low numbers and
differing woods is not as convincing. It appears that so long as the frequency
of mode 4 of the top is within 4 -5% of the back then the resultant finished
instrument is a fine sounding mandolin. My experience with mandolas also gives
some indication that it may be relevant to mandolas as well since the one any
only mandola I have made that had mode 4 of the top and back plates closely
matched is easily the finest sounding mandola I have made to date.
It is interesting to note that one commonly repeated comment
about the "well tuned" mandolins is that the sound was "well balanced" – i.e.
even tone across the strings and up the neck without any obvious changes in
volume or tonal qualities. The disappointing instruments were all unbalanced.
Thus at least the technique does greatly increase the probably of a well
balanced even sounding instrument even if it does nothing else.
Mandolin #89 is particularly interesting because it illustrates
the limitations of the technique. It was certainly consistent in that the plates
were not matched for mode 4 and the resulting sound was disappointing. The fact
that I was able correct the deficiencies in the sound by changing the wood in
the saddle indicates that the results presented here really can only be
considered relevant to the mandolins I make, in the standard configurations I
use. If I had used Blackwood saddles in all my mandolins, then the conclusions
of the paper probably would have been quite different. The optimum free plate
tuning probably would have been similar to mandolin #89, and all the other
mandolins would have been disappointing because they sounded too trebly and
bright. Extending this to mandolins made by other makers where the bridge
configuration will be different and other configurations will also be different,
if these makers tune the free plates the same as I do, then they may be quite
disappointed with the results because the tunings are not optimal for the way
they make their instruments. This could explain why free plate tuning is so
controversial. A particular tuning may work for one Luthier, but not another
Luthier because the instruments are not made the same, and will have quite a
different sound. Thus I would caution readers of this paper that they may not
get the same results as I have with the mandolins they construct themselves.
Blindly copying the tunings and expecting wonderful results would be unwise,
because that probably won’t happen.
The small piece of evidence presented in this paper represents a
huge amount of effort on my part. Unfortunately there is precious little
evidence from other makers. The only evidence I have seen has been one other
report on an Internet forum of a pair of mandolins made by another maker that
were tuned identically and ended up sounding identical as a finished instrument
(unpublished). The evidence available to date certainly does not disprove the
hypothesis, which is an important point to make. As for predicting the tone of a
completed instrument, I think the best we can hope for is if you can repeat the
free plate tuning in two mandolins of identical construction, the resulting tone
is very likely to be identical or at least very similar – i.e. consistent, which
is what I was arguing in my previous paper (Coombe 2005). In addition, if the
free plates are tuned such that mode 4 in the top and back are very close in
frequency, then the completed instrument is likely to have a pleasing and well
balanced tone. This is a significant conclusion from the data presented in this
paper. It is something that can be applied in practice by any Luthier who makes
a mandolin. However, the sound of a completed mandolin is dependent on a host of
other factors, not just plate tuning, so these need to be constant if the
instruments are to sound identical or close to identical. Note that a pleasing
tone has been achieved in my mandolins, other makers may change some other
factor that alters the tone so it is no longer pleasing when mode 4 is matched.
Matching mode 4 does not necessarily guarantee a "well balanced" and pleasing
tone, but if a mandolin is constructed similarly, there is a high probability
the completed instrument will sound good. The results presented here certainly
merit further investigation by other makers.
Bibliography
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Vol4 No1 pp 96-99.
Coombe P.E., Use of Australian Native Timbers in Mandolins.
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15, Number 4, p.6-11, December 1996, ISSN: 0815-9793
Coombe P.E., Use of Australian Native and Imported Timbers in
Mandolins II . Journal of the Australian Association of Musical
Instrument Makers Inc., Volume 18, p.7-10, March 1999
Coombe, P.E. (2003), A new mandolin bridge. Journal of the
Australian Association of Musical Instrument Makers Inc., Volume 22, p.11-15,
December 2003
Coombe P.E, Free Plate Tuning of Mandolins. Journal of the
Australian Association of Musical Instrument Makers Inc., Volume 24, p.9-24,
March 2005
Hutchins, C. M (1983), Plate tuning for the violin maker. CAS
Newsletter #39. Reprinted in CAS Journal Vol 4 No 1 May 2000.
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No 4 pp 27-32.
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